India was lots of fun, full of lots of family, food, shopping, arts, a surprise wedding of my cousin, heat, and dust. The latter two really got to me in the last three weeks, with many distasteful manifestations in my nose, throat, and skin. Luckily, my uncle hooked up an appointment with a really swell skin specialist who prescribed this miracle cream to cure the latter ill. I think my nose and throat will mend themselves over time, since I'm now away from the outsourced pollution.
Random observations, speculations, and recommendations (which might eventually be culled into a more coherent article...) --
-You can find pretty much anything within a few feet of wherever you are in Mumbai, Delhi, or the big cities of Kerala. While sitting in traffic, I've been approached at the window with offers for novels, memory sticks, garlands, toys, nuts, and more. There are dozens of tiny shops lining every street, and dozens of informal stands set up with the most random merchandise. Services are ample from tailors to mechanics to doctors (allopathic and ayurvedic) and ridiculously affordable for anyone traveling from the west.
- Since the last time I was in Mumbai in 1997, I noticed a remarkable increase in women walking on the street -- and the average age is younger, and mode of dress far less conservative than it was then, though still utterly prude by American standards. Still, I didn't really feel unsafe in Mumbai at all; the male gaze was no worse than San Francisco. Delhi is notorious for being leering, but I only found it a little worse than Mumbai. Maybe I wasn't there long enough, or I was in the touristy areas at night.
- I thought our War on Terror was extreme, but Mumbai takes it to new levels. There are metal detectors placed ahead of every shopping mall, movie theater, and temple, and billboards and public service announcements to make "Mumbai Unbreakable." One temple in Kerala which has always required men to wear dhotis but used to allow them to wear them over pants and/or with shirts now only lets them wear a dhoti. (Uh, so much for "modesty" being a gender-neutral cultural concept.)
- People do not believe in leaving space in line!! You have to be all up in the booty of the person in front of you, or someone will surely cut, possibly from a sincere mistake about whether you meant to be in line, given your curiously considerate behavior.
- Probably the most useful Hindi phrase during travel to Hindi-speaking regions: "Nahi chahiye." (= "I don't want [it/them/these/those, etc.]") The street hawkers in all big cities I've been to, and the tour guides, particularly in Delhi, will be all over you trying to persuade you to buy their good or service. Just say this phrase loudly and clearly a few times and your work should be done (assuming you don't want their shit).
- Big temples leave you with a very poor taste in your mouth, incredibly dirty feet, and maybe a few bruises. Seriously, I fucking hate over-zealous temple-going motherfuckers who push, shove, and bribe to get in their worship. Temples are veritable marketplaces, with dozens of people swarming you to buy puja thalis, murtis, mithai, and random crap, or saying you can pay them 300 rupees to get to the front of the line. WTF? I mean, I can't blame the people offering up these goods and services because they're poor and they need money, and when have I ever otherwise been offended by blasphemy -- this would be a good place for it, on the contrary -- but I just can't stand being surrounded by earnestly pious twits.
- Arranged marriage is so weird to me. Maybe it shouldn't be, because my parents have had a successful one, and it has been quite common among the rest of my relatives and in my culture generally -- but the fact that I could never see myself emotionally and physically committing myself to someone just because he meets a certain community-authored checklist makes me further adamant in questioning any dominant paradigm of sexuality and relationships in any cultural context. I find the same problem of self-denial in arranged marriage that I find in heteronormativity or puritanism, and these are so inextricably linked. We need a personal as well as societal sexual revolution in order to acknowledge and affirm any desires or unions that fall outside the purview of heterosexual marriage.
- Somehow, the Punjabi food in India didn't seem that different to me than the Indian food that's available here. Of course, here (East Bay/SF at least) you don't really get Gomantak cuisine and Gujarati thalis and all that, and here the selection of the Punjabi fare is pretty limited and predictable, but the quality and taste is pretty comparable.
- Good places to eat in Mumbai include some really bomb hole-in-the-walls that actually didn't give any of us any stomach problems: Gypsy Corner (Maharashtrian snacks and pizza) in Dadar, Highway Gomantak (Goan cuisine) in Mahim, Gujarati Thali in Worli; and also some trendy, more upscale-ish spots like Olive (Mediterranean) in Bandra, Karma (Italian, Chinese, Indian) at Opera House, Bombay Blue (Chinese, Indian, Italian, Mexican) in Bandra, and Oven Fresh (Chinese, Indian, Italian, Mexican) in Dadar. My mom is the only one who got an upset stomach, and after which restaurant, but the five-star Taj Mahal Intercontinental. Oof!
Random observations, speculations, and recommendations (which might eventually be culled into a more coherent article...) --
-You can find pretty much anything within a few feet of wherever you are in Mumbai, Delhi, or the big cities of Kerala. While sitting in traffic, I've been approached at the window with offers for novels, memory sticks, garlands, toys, nuts, and more. There are dozens of tiny shops lining every street, and dozens of informal stands set up with the most random merchandise. Services are ample from tailors to mechanics to doctors (allopathic and ayurvedic) and ridiculously affordable for anyone traveling from the west.
- Since the last time I was in Mumbai in 1997, I noticed a remarkable increase in women walking on the street -- and the average age is younger, and mode of dress far less conservative than it was then, though still utterly prude by American standards. Still, I didn't really feel unsafe in Mumbai at all; the male gaze was no worse than San Francisco. Delhi is notorious for being leering, but I only found it a little worse than Mumbai. Maybe I wasn't there long enough, or I was in the touristy areas at night.
- I thought our War on Terror was extreme, but Mumbai takes it to new levels. There are metal detectors placed ahead of every shopping mall, movie theater, and temple, and billboards and public service announcements to make "Mumbai Unbreakable." One temple in Kerala which has always required men to wear dhotis but used to allow them to wear them over pants and/or with shirts now only lets them wear a dhoti. (Uh, so much for "modesty" being a gender-neutral cultural concept.)

- People do not believe in leaving space in line!! You have to be all up in the booty of the person in front of you, or someone will surely cut, possibly from a sincere mistake about whether you meant to be in line, given your curiously considerate behavior.
- Probably the most useful Hindi phrase during travel to Hindi-speaking regions: "Nahi chahiye." (= "I don't want [it/them/these/those, etc.]") The street hawkers in all big cities I've been to, and the tour guides, particularly in Delhi, will be all over you trying to persuade you to buy their good or service. Just say this phrase loudly and clearly a few times and your work should be done (assuming you don't want their shit).
- Big temples leave you with a very poor taste in your mouth, incredibly dirty feet, and maybe a few bruises. Seriously, I fucking hate over-zealous temple-going motherfuckers who push, shove, and bribe to get in their worship. Temples are veritable marketplaces, with dozens of people swarming you to buy puja thalis, murtis, mithai, and random crap, or saying you can pay them 300 rupees to get to the front of the line. WTF? I mean, I can't blame the people offering up these goods and services because they're poor and they need money, and when have I ever otherwise been offended by blasphemy -- this would be a good place for it, on the contrary -- but I just can't stand being surrounded by earnestly pious twits.

- Arranged marriage is so weird to me. Maybe it shouldn't be, because my parents have had a successful one, and it has been quite common among the rest of my relatives and in my culture generally -- but the fact that I could never see myself emotionally and physically committing myself to someone just because he meets a certain community-authored checklist makes me further adamant in questioning any dominant paradigm of sexuality and relationships in any cultural context. I find the same problem of self-denial in arranged marriage that I find in heteronormativity or puritanism, and these are so inextricably linked. We need a personal as well as societal sexual revolution in order to acknowledge and affirm any desires or unions that fall outside the purview of heterosexual marriage.
- Somehow, the Punjabi food in India didn't seem that different to me than the Indian food that's available here. Of course, here (East Bay/SF at least) you don't really get Gomantak cuisine and Gujarati thalis and all that, and here the selection of the Punjabi fare is pretty limited and predictable, but the quality and taste is pretty comparable.
- Good places to eat in Mumbai include some really bomb hole-in-the-walls that actually didn't give any of us any stomach problems: Gypsy Corner (Maharashtrian snacks and pizza) in Dadar, Highway Gomantak (Goan cuisine) in Mahim, Gujarati Thali in Worli; and also some trendy, more upscale-ish spots like Olive (Mediterranean) in Bandra, Karma (Italian, Chinese, Indian) at Opera House, Bombay Blue (Chinese, Indian, Italian, Mexican) in Bandra, and Oven Fresh (Chinese, Indian, Italian, Mexican) in Dadar. My mom is the only one who got an upset stomach, and after which restaurant, but the five-star Taj Mahal Intercontinental. Oof!
If the earlier cinematic adaptation of Umrao Jan Ada compromised the actual depth of the novel according to 

Next time, Hrrang, Chickon, and I plan to film a documentary where we show ourselves skating and then highlight various babies' thoughts and reactions to our ineptitude.
I had meant to clean and even started to -- really! -- but then I accidentally vacuumed a penny and all hell broke loose. Since the vacuum started roaring furiously and emitting foul smells, I resolved to abandon that task, and then thought there was no point in doing anything else either. I'm very logical that way.

